Northwest of Jeju, A record of a 3-night, 4-day walking trip in April '26
Date of visit: 26.04.15 – 26.04.18
Departure Point: Gimpo International Airport
Destination: Jeju International Airport
It is a 3-night, 4-day itinerary, but one day is completely filled with a schedule at a restaurant in Pyoseon that I was planning to revisit.
The course is actually closer to a 2-night, 3-day course.
Northwest of Jeju A 3-night, 4-day walking tour itinerary that feels like a 1-night, 2-day trip
Walking Tour of Northwest Jeju DAY 1, Pyoseon Sabujak
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3:40 PM
Jeju, arrived at 3:40
I will unload my luggage at the accommodation I booked in Sinsan-ri right now.
I plan to move to Sabujak in Pyoseon.
If you take bus number 101, you can go directly to Sinsan-ri along the eastern coast of Jeju.
The reason I went to Sinsan-ri was because I had a restaurant reservation in Pyoseon.
Being not very organized, we booked accommodation thinking it was near Pyoseon, but it turned out to be in Sinsan-ri. In reality, Sinsan-ri and Pyoseon were quite a distance apart. We had thought it was right in front of us.
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5:50 PM
I arrived at the Shinsan-ri bus stop.
My restaurant reservation was for 7 PM, so I had some spare time and decided to look around the neighborhood before leaving.
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The house that has now become a cat's hideout.
The cat on the roof running around as if it were in such a hurry
It seemed to represent the tranquil atmosphere of Shinsan-ri village.
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7:00 PM
unique appearance Bujak. The exterior always surprises you, making you wonder if you're in the right place.
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A course featuring Jeju cuisine.
This is a small restaurant that accepts reservations for up to 10 people.
So that guests who booked the same time slot can converse comfortably
It is a space where the owner suggests topics and we share conversation and meals together.
I had a good time last year, so I visited again this year.
This year's guests were me, Mr. Ferret, and two foreign guests.
They were a French couple living in Canada.
I really used every gesture, every English I had—both hand and foot—to express my impressions of the trip to Korea and
We shared various stories about our cultural differences and foods from Korea and around the world.
I was tired from using too much concentration, but there is also a special experience to enjoy in a space like this.
I mean the kind of experience where you actually open up your deepest thoughts to people you meet for the first time.
After having a meal, drinks, and conversation together starting at 7 PM, by the time we left the space, it was already well past 11 PM.
Leaving my regrets behind, I said goodbye to the owner and got into a taxi to head back to my accommodation.
Northwest Jeju Walking Tour DAY 2, Sinsan-ri – Gwakji Beach – Hallim – Yeonriji Garden
Northwest Jeju Walking Tour DAY 2-1, Sinsan-ri Coastal Road (feat. Squid Ramen)
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11:00 AM
After checking out of the accommodation, I went out to the coastal road for lunch.
I had decided to have a simple squid ramen on the coastal road to cure my hangover.
In Sinsan-ri, it is easier to see seagulls than people, and easier to see the sound of car engines than
It was a space where the friction sound of the waves and the breakwater was more memorable.
The vast expanse of the sea and the wide-open sky without any obstructions bring a sense of peace to the mind.
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Squid ramen without a signboard, The person across from me naturally drying squid in the sea breeze
It looks quite appetizing.
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“Boss, please give me one cuttlefish ramen and one grilled squid.”
“We don't have cuttlefish right now, but we have abalone and clam ramen, so eat that instead.”
“Then, I'll have that one.”
It seemed that cuttlefish would only appear when it got a little hotter.
Since the important thing is the ramen accompanied by the sea breeze of Sinsan-ri, I didn't mind and ordered something else.
With the refreshing Jeju sea as seasoning
There is no point in trying to describe the taste of morning hangover ramen in text.
The satisfaction from the atmosphere filled my stomach nicely.
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12:10 PM
To get from Sinsan-ri to Aewol, I took bus number 101 again, which is the Jeju City Express.
We were the first passengers on the bus.
The driver was quite a funny person, and he even left a guestbook in the car.
He also showcased a song he practiced hard while watching YouTube.
(They sang vocal songs from around the world, including O Sole Mio… Amazing)
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I heard that you do YouTube as well... and it seems you've acted too.
I was deeply impressed by the way the driver constantly lives out and pioneers his own life from his position.
I finished a long bus journey of about two hours while receiving good energy.
Upon arriving at our accommodation, we decided to rest for about an hour before moving on.
Northwest Jeju Walking Tour DAY 2-2, Gwakji Beach (feat. Hamahama Brewery)
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3:50 PM
Located about a 10-minute walk from the accommodation and Gwakji Beach Hamahama Brewery.
Craft that emerged relatively recently Makgeolli It was a brewery.
There are various breweries in the northwest of Jeju, and since this is a new brewery I haven't visited before...
I was interested.
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They were selling a single-item makgeolli called Hamahama Nutty.
It is a makgeolli made with roasted buckwheat, giving it a nutty flavor and a roasted chocolate aroma.
It was a very high-quality liquor, and I had many interesting conversations with the brewer.
I liked the makgeolli so much that I even took a picture at Gwakji Beach.
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On this day, the weather at Gwakji Beach was starkly divided along the western and eastern boundaries.
It is cloudy in the west and clear in the east. It was originally supposed to rain for the entire trip.
It wasn't raining yet. Just hold on a little longer.
We decided to leave the makgeolli at the accommodation and head to Hyeopjae Beach.
Northwest Jeju Walking Tour DAY 2-3, Hallim (feat. Hyeopjae Beach, Geumneung Beach, Upihupi)
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5:20 PM
When I got off at the Hyeopjae Beach bus stop, there was a bottle shop called Giyoung Sanghoe.
A while ago, a coworker told me about Jeju craft beer, I heard there was a guesthouse and bottle shop run by an owner who is serious about craft beer, and I instinctively felt that this was the place.
When I went inside, sure enough, it was well-stocked with numerous Jeju local beers, Haenyeo wines, and world-class craft beers. It was a lineup that showed true expertise. I bought a few bottles of Jeju local beer here before leaving.
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Hyeopjae in Hyeopjae Beach means "to possess talent," and it is said to signify a village that produces many talented scholars.
It seems like I visited when the tide was very low, with waterways coming in between the beaches and
The emerald sea blends in beautifully.
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The distance between Hyeopjae Beach and Geumneung Beach, the two beaches in Hallim-eup, is only a 10-minute walk.
As you walk from Hyeopjae Beach to Geumneung Beach, you can encounter numerous stone towers built by people.
It is a truly beautiful beach that harmonizes with Biyangdo Island visible in the distance.
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The palm tree-lined road just before arriving at Geumneung Beach.
Perhaps due to the influence of Hallim Park located between Geumneung and Hyeopjae, a long row of palm trees welcomes us.
If you walk among plants of overwhelming size
A sense of inexplicable intimidation and fear overwhelms me, but this sensation isn't bad.
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Palm tree that grows tall downwards 2
It doesn't look that big when viewed like this, but in reality, it is huge. It is several times the size of a person.
It is a real shame that I couldn't go to Hallim Park because the operating hours are only until 6 PM and I was pressed for time.
It is because I spent too much time traveling from Pyoseon on foot and dawdled at the accommodation.
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Finally arrived at Geumneung Beach. Compared to Hyeopjae, it is less crowded and there is more seaweed piled up in various places.
Shortly after arriving, the sun set and the water rose, filling most of the area visible now.
As the sun set, the wind grew chilly, and as it approached 7:30, the time for our dinner reservation, we prepared to head over.
For dinner, we went to Yeonriji Garden, which serves only Jeju native black pork, located about a 15-minute taxi ride from Geumneung Beach.
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6:25 PM
A small pizza shop that caught my eye while I was on my way to catch a taxi Upihupi.
I happened to have some free time and I really love pizza, so
A simple slice of pizza before going out for dinner. Beer I asked if I could have a drink.
They said they don't have pizza by the slice but have small size pizza, so that and Beer I decided to have a drink before moving on.
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I thought it was a small, independent shop, but it turned out to be a chain pizza place with its main branch in Seogwipo.
Still, the pizza was delicious, and with the happy hour beer included, it was a satisfying snack.
Northwest Jeju Walking Tour DAY 2-4, Yeonriji Garden (feat. Hallim Hanaro Mart, Umji's)
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7:00 PM
Yeonriji Garden is located in a remote area somewhat inland from the sea in Hankyeong-myeon, so I took a taxi to get there.
The taxi driver even gave me a call taxi number, warning that a taxi might not be able to come in when I was leaving.
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Since this restaurant uses only native black pigs designated as Natural Monument No. 550 and accepts only a limited number of guests, it is recommended to make a reservation.
The taste itself may be polarizing due to the firm texture, thick fat layer, and strong aroma, but
This is a restaurant I can highly recommend to those who seek culinary diversity and the fun of the experience rather than simply superior taste. It was one of the items on my wish list for this trip, and it was a fun experience.
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8:00 PM
It got really dark by the time I finished eating. It was much darker than what the photos captured, so I rushed over here.
Just as I was wondering how to get back, I was relieved to find a Kakao Taxi more easily than expected.
It felt like a shame to end it like this, so on the way back to the accommodation
I plan to get off at Hanlim, get some sashimi to go from Hanaro Mart or a sashimi restaurant, and enjoy it with the alcohol I bought earlier in the day.
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8:30 PM
Jeju liquors and sashimi at Hanlim Hanaro Mart.
There were flounder, mackerel sashimi, seasoned cuttlefish, and more.
The season for mackerel is over, and I'm not very interested in sashimi found inland, such as flounder.
I only bought Hallasan 1950 liquor, which I haven't tried yet, and left.
Even after that, I wandered around the neighborhood sashimi restaurants for quite a while, looking for some unique Jeju sashimi.
It was not easy to find at all.
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9:20 PM
After wandering around for about an hour, I finally found a sashimi restaurant that sells unique raw fish through Naver Maps.
When I asked about the composition of the assorted sashimi platter over the phone, I was told it consisted of black sea bream, a 17kg yellowtail amberjack, and an ice sea bream.
I made a takeout reservation over the phone and headed out immediately.
Located inside Hallim Market Umji's Sashimi takeout.
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At the back entrance, Ari, who looks like a Malamute (?), is guarding the store.
Unlike typical phrases, the phrase 'Touch and I'll bite' left a strong impression.
It seemed like a gentle child as long as you didn't provoke it first. It was cute how it didn't growl even when I went near it and just quietly lingered by my side.
![제주 북서쪽(애월, 한림, 한경), 뚜벅이 여행기 3박 4일 코스 [26.04.15 – 26.04.18] count(title)%, 제주 북서쪽 엄지네 회 뜨기 scaled](https://drunkencapybara.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/05/제주-북서쪽-엄지네-회-뜨기-scaled.jpg)
While packing up the sashimi, we also talked about how difficult it is to find a restaurant that serves Jeju's unique seafood...
As we talked about fish, they even added some butterfish caught in the West Sea off Jeju.
The sashimi, neatly aged in a curing medium with controlled moisture, looks appetizing.
This is a place I highly recommend to those looking for unique Jeju-style sashimi in Hallim.
![제주 북서쪽(애월, 한림, 한경), 뚜벅이 여행기 3박 4일 코스 [26.04.15 – 26.04.18] count(title)%, 제주 북서쪽 엄지네 회한상 숙소 scaled](https://drunkencapybara.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/05/제주-북서쪽-엄지네-회한상-숙소-scaled.jpg)
10:20 PM
After wrapping up the schedule, I ended the day at the accommodation, enjoying some takeout sashimi and drinks.
The Hamahama Makgeolli was especially good, and the Lemon Basil Wit, Geumoreum Dubbel, and Dotdot Stout bought from Giyoung Sanghoe.
Lemon Basil Wit was good, but Geumoreum Dubbel was too bland to be called a Dubbel, so it didn't suit my taste.
Dottot was decent, and Hallasan 1950 was quite neat; I didn't have high expectations, but it wasn't bad.
Jeju Northwest Walking Tour DAY 3, Aewol Handam Coastal Walk – Jeju Beer – Osulloc
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For the third day, I planned a trip to Jeju Beer and Osulloc using bus route 784-1 from Hallim. I also wanted to visit the Fantasy Forest Gotjawal Park located on the same route, but since all reservations including forest guided tours were fully booked, I decided to skip that part of the itinerary and take my time.
I had booked a docent explanation for Jeju Beer for 2:30 PM, so I adjusted my schedule accordingly.
Northwest Jeju Walking Tour DAY 3-1, Aewol Handam Coastal Walk (Doldam Peanut Noodles, Aewol Cafe Street, Handam Beach)
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11:40 AM
It is a fusion restaurant that features peanuts from Udo and Gogi-guksu, a representative dish of Jeju.
Although fusion dishes using local specialties are sometimes ambiguous in terms of culinary quality,
As someone who enjoys trying such things, this was a shop that really piqued my curiosity.
Peanut noodles with peanut broth and the signature Hallasan cheese peanut noodles.
Peanut noodles are a bit sweeter than regular soybean noodles and have a soy milk-like nuance.
The Hallasan Cheese Peanut Noodles felt like a Jeju-style Tantanmen, but compared to fresh noodles, the broth didn't cling well to either side, so it felt a bit disjointed.
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12:30 PM
I came to Aewol Cafe Street, which is about a 10-minute walk away. There are also cafes where you can see the sea 24 hours a day.
It is a neighborhood where you can sit on the terrace and benches behind the cafe and enjoy the view of the sea.
It would have been nice to look at the sea while having a cup of coffee, but
I hurried along the way because I wanted to walk along the coastal promenade.
It was a day when there weren't many people, perhaps because the weather was cloudy.
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If you keep walking straight, you will come to the Handam Coastal Walk. The walk, where stones, the sea, and flowers harmonize, is truly beautiful.
However, perhaps because the weather was humid, I exchanged eye contact with my sea cockroach friends several times.
I suppose you could say this was a bit scary. Fortunately, the sea cockroaches would quickly run away at the slightest sign of human presence and never encroached on the walking path.
I'm also curious about what it would be like on a clear day.
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Near Handam Beach, at the end of the walking path.
Pine cones are tucked right into the holes in the rocks.
I wonder if someone planted this intentionally... It was unique, so I took a picture. Does anyone happen to know the reason?
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A photo taken from Handam Beach toward the walking path. The sky is dark, as if it is about to pour rain.
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1:15 PM
On my way back to the accommodation to grab a raincoat, as there was a definite forecast of rain today.
A power struggle is in full swing in the sky.
I plan to head to Jeju Beer as soon as I get back from my accommodation.
Northwest Jeju Walking Tour DAY 3-2, Jeju Beer
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2:20 PM
Jeju Beer I arrived at the brewery. Large-scale craft beer The brewery is consistently releasing products at convenience stores under the name Jeju Wit.
I booked a brewery tour that includes a docent explanation.
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The docent explains things well and incorporates quizzes in between to keep things from getting boring.
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The tour concludes with a tasting.
I was amazed by the scale and system of Jeju Beer's brewery.,
Beer The taste craft beer It seems like they paid more attention to mass appeal than to enthusiasts.
It is sufficient to allow about 1 hour and 30 minutes for the tour, including the tasting.
I took bus number 748-1 and headed to my next destination, Osulloc.
Since the intervals between buses are very long, travelers on foot should check the schedule carefully.
Northwest Jeju Walking Tour DAY 3, Osulloc (feat. BBQ Shack)
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4:20 PM
Osulloc I stopped by the Tea Museum. I found out for the first time that it is a brand created by Amorepacific.
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The store was quite large and there were a lot of people.
It is impressive how well the various teas are arranged for sampling.
I learned a lot about how to describe and capture the scent of a space.
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Various desserts made with tea are also sold as products.
Osulloc ‘People I met at Sabujak yesterday mentioned that because of the name 'Tea Museum,' foreign visitors feel it is too commercial rather than a museum, and I understand how they feel.
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I also stopped by the Innisfree in the annex. They are selling sachets and fragrance-related products that can only be purchased here.
It was good that they explained the product development process for various cosmetics and teas in detail.
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The tea field spread out next to the Innisfree Annex is really pretty. It's also a great spot for photos.
Walking through the tea fields with a raincoat pulled over my head really made me feel like I was on a trip.
I was hungry from walking around so much, so I decided to go eat dinner.
Heading to the barbecue place I spotted inside the nearby aerospace hotel.
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5:40 PM
'BBQ Shack', located about a 15-minute walk past a busy road.‘
Since I came all the way here, I looked for a place to eat nearby.
It is located in a rather odd spot for a barbecue place.
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The BBQ plate is absolutely delicious... and the price is reasonable.
Is the downside that the atmosphere is a bit lacking since it is inside the hotel?.
Seeing that there are quite a few foreigners there, I think it must have gained quite a bit of word-of-mouth popularity.
After having dinner like this, I returned to my accommodation at 8 PM. I wrapped up the day by eating the leftover alcohol and snacks at the accommodation.
Walking Tour of Northwest Jeju DAY 4, Jeju International Airport
On the fourth day, the flight was at 12:20, so I was in a hurry to catch the plane after checking out.
I returned to Seoul after finishing a 3-night, 4-day trip that felt like a 1-night, 2-day trip.
It was a real shame that I couldn't even have lunch.
Lunch on this day was Kui Kui I finished this trip with Pig Village Jjukkumi.
