Buan, Jeonbuk, a record of a 2-day, 1-night walking trip in March 1926
Date of visit: 26.03.28 – 26.03.29
Departure Point: Seoul Central City Terminal (Honam Line)
Destination: Buan Terminal
Recommended articles to read together
Course organization
Buan Walking Tour DAY 1-1. Buan Terminal (feat. Ariul Rice Cake Workshop)
Buan Walking Tour DAY 1-2. Gaeamsa Temple (feat. Ugeumbawi Rock)
Buan Walking Tour DAY 1-3. Gomso Salt Field (feat. Solti Sunset, Seulji Bakery, Dahae Crab Paste)
Buan Walking Tour DAY 2, Chaeseokgang – Byeonsan Seawater Steam Bath – Buan Terminal
Buan Walking Tour DAY 2-1. Chaeseokgang (feat. Sea Caves)
Buan Walking Tour DAY 1, Buan Terminal – Gaeamsa Temple – Gomso Salt Field – Naesosa Temple – Gyeokpo Port
06:50 Departure from Seoul Central City on the Honam Line
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Original planUnlike before, I ended up taking the first train at 6:50 AM.
I adjusted my schedule because I heard that the cherry blossoms at Gaeamsa Temple in Buan would bloom around March 30th.
To start with the result, I haven't opened it yet.
Perhaps because the weather turned chilly for a moment, I checked again
april 2nd~april The sad news that it had been postponed to around the 9th
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A simple breakfast of muffins from Paris Baguette
Muffins are the right choice for breakfast anyway.
08:30 Stop at Jeongan Albam Rest Area
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We stopped once at Jeongan Albam Rest Area, and the rest area was big.
What's going on? Why are there so many people? There are shops set up like in an outlet mall. It's fascinating.
Buan Walking Tour DAY 1-1. Buan Terminal (feat. Ariul Rice Cake Workshop)
Arrived at Buan Terminal at 10:10
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I arrived at Buan Terminal at 10:10, when I should have arrived at 9:40 as scheduled.
Gaeamsa Temple The bus leaving was at 10:40, so I planned to eat as soon as I arrived, but time was tight.
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Is it a traditional rice cake workshop?
Just as I thought it matched well with Buan, which has a strong rural vibe
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Butter crunchy Gijeongtteok—that’s extraordinary.
Shanghai butter rice cake? Buan takes the lead with Korean butter crunch gijeongtteok.
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What on earth is chewy glutinous rice salt bread? (Positive)
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I was just planning to grab a quick bite and leave, but there were so many interesting things that I ended up picking up quite a lot.
Since I said I was eating there, they sliced it nicely for me.
Butter Gijeongtteok feels like steamed bread baked to a crunchy exterior.
I haven't tried Shanghai butter rice cake so I can't compare, but Korean butter crunch gijeongtteok? You're talented.
I'm not really a fan of steamed bread, so it's not to my taste, but
It was an interesting menu, and I felt it was quite sophisticated as my first impression of Buan.
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While making plans, I trembled in fear looking at the dreaded bus schedules, and unlike what I had expected
The bus stop is also well-equipped.
Buan Walking Tour DAY 1-2. Gaeamsa Temple (feat. Ugeumbawi Rock)
11:00 Gaeamsa Temple Get off
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I chartered a bus and arrived quickly in 20 minutes.
Is the pillar a Blue Dragon? Cute.
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The path leading up to Gaeamsa Temple runs alongside the road, with a forest of fir trees? Anyway, it is a forest path.
The short but well-maintained forest path is also nice.
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I turned to the right and saw two huge rocks standing firmly in place.
It looks like a temple built based on that.
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After passing through the Four Heavenly Kings Gate and entering, I found a building like this.

If you go further in, you will find the two rocks you saw earlier and the room where the Buddha is enshrined.
Anyway, it looks pretty because it fits perfectly with that place.
That rock is called Ugeum Rock.

This is a reservoir located on the way out from Gaeamsa Temple to catch the next bus to Gomso Salt Field.
There is a cherry blossom path leading to the reservoir that takes about 30 minutes to walk along, but it is a shame that I missed the blooming season.
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It would definitely look pretty if cherry blossoms were in full bloom on that bare frame. It looks this good even without them.
For those of you who find it hard to imagine, I will show you the power of God.
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‘Click’
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No, not this...
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‘Click’
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Isn't it pretty? It's this beautiful when the cherry blossoms bloom.
I hope you time your visit well with the blooming season.
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I took the 12:06 bus from Gaeamsa Temple to Gomso Salt Field.
Kakao Maps' bus schedules are quite accurate, so you just need to check the timetable posted inside the bus stop.
Buan Walking Tour DAY 1-3. Gomso Salt Field (feat. Solti Sunset, Seulji Bakery, Dahae Crab Paste)
12:45 Gomso Salt Field Get off
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The scenery of Gomso Salt Fields seen from outside the bus.
I was slightly taken aback by how somewhat different it looked from the Uyuni Salt Desert in Korea that I had seen when planning the trip.
When I saw it on Instagram, the salt fields were filled with water, so the sky and scenery were reflected in them, making it incredibly beautiful.
A slightly eerie feeling.
It is said that it is difficult to enter the salt fields during the salt production season from April to October.
In March, the water isn't full, so it doesn't look pretty.
When would be a good time to go?
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The gift shop across the street, Salty Sunset.
This is a small shop operated by Seulji Bakery, famous in Buan.
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There is also a photo zone at the entrance. The steamed bun character looks cute.
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Buan local liquors visible as soon as you enter.
There was a huge collection of local liquor.
Upon checking the labels, I found that liquors from two places, Naebyeonsan Brewery and Gangsan Myeongju, were gathered together.
When planning a trip, I try to look for and visit local breweries.
I skipped Gangsanmyeongju because its location seemed difficult to reach on foot.
They said that Naebyeonsan Brewery cannot be visited on weekends because it is closed. It is possible to visit on weekdays.
Anyway, it was really great to see the local drinks gathered here.
I bought two bottles: Angel's Sigh and Baekje Soju.
Later, when I compared prices with other liquor stores, it was indeed on the expensive side.
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Traditional liquors from other regions are also in one corner.
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A prop shop extending up to the second floor.
It seems you can buy ice cream or traditional liquor and eat it here.
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Looking out at the Gomso Salt Field from the terrace connected to the second floor might be quite atmospheric.
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The carved mirror interior is pretty.
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I bought a mulberry salt on my way out.
Buan's specialty, mulberries, and salt from Gomsom Salt Field. It is a combination I like.
I am collecting magnets related to the regions I travel to as souvenirs.
There were no magnets here, and although there were many other pretty items, I didn't buy anything.
But... I couldn't find any other souvenir shops throughout my trip to Buan, so I couldn't buy anything.
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Seulji Bakery, a beautiful building.
It's a steamed bun shop that has been in business in Buan for a long time, but public sentiment isn't very good.
There was a lot of talk about the prices being high and that they had lost their original spirit.
As it grew in fame and became a tourist attraction
It seems that the residents' dissatisfaction had grown.
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The signature salt steamed buns were already sold out by 1 PM when I visited.
It comes out at 12:00 PM on weekdays, and at 12:00 PM and 2:30 PM on weekends.
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As a consolation, I bought a steamed bagel, mulberry jam, mulberry latte, and a steamed cream bun.
I ate at the accommodation, and the steamed bagel was tastier than expected.
The jam and latte made with mulberries are also unique and delicious.
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Unlike the harsh reviews, the reason for its popularity was fully understandable.
It’s a steamed bun with a chewy texture that makes you seem like you’re really good at making bread for meals.
I became very curious about salt steamed buns.
I didn't like cream steamed buns because the cream seemed to interfere with the taste of the well-made dough.
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I came out and walked along the salt field, but as expected, I couldn't find that Instagram photo spot.
I guess it wasn't the right time. It was so pretty.
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13:30 Dahae Flower Crab Paste
I got hungry while walking, so I came to have lunch.
This is Dahae Flower Crab Marinated in Soy Sauce, located about a 30-minute walk from Seulji Bakery. It takes 3 minutes by taxi (but will they even be able to catch one?).
Luckily, the bus timing worked out, so I took the bus and arrived easily.
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The area near Gomso Port, situated next to the Gomso Salt Fields, is famous for its salted seafood set meals.
I chose this place because it serves soy sauce marinated crab and salted seafood set meals together.
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Except for soy sauce marinated crab, marinated shrimp, and mackerel
You can freely take and eat all side dishes, including salted seafood.
Perhaps because it was soy sauce marinated crab served with fermented seafood, I liked that it wasn't salty and had a clean, mild flavor.
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As a privilege of walking, I also had some mulberry wine sold in stores in the middle of the day, and it tasted pretty good.
15:20 Board the bus to Naesosa Temple
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I was thinking of stopping by Gomso Port, but due to physical limitations, I took the bus straight to Naesosa.
There were so many salted seafood shops near Gomso Port, which I saw by bus.
15:35 Naesosa Temple arrive
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Naesosa was the most popular temple in Buan.
Indeed, when I got off, I saw that there were a lot of people.
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The Buddha's head nodding looks really hip.
It is difficult to convey through photos.
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Naesosa Temple Fir forest on the way up
As you stroll through the long row of fir trees
It feels like a switch has been flipped, or something; it feels refreshing.
Naesosa Temple On the way up, there is a path leading to Jikso Falls, one of the famous tourist attractions.
They say it's 2 hours one way... 4 hours round trip. Maybe next time.
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After passing through the Four Heavenly Kings Gate Naesosa Temple foreground.
The sight of nameplates inscribed with wishes wrapped around a giant old tree is mystical.
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This protected tree, the county tree of Buan, is said to be a zelkova tree that has lived for over 1,000 years.
A small bell hangs above the wooden nameplate, ringing whenever the wind blows.
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Gentle breeze, clinking sound.
Whether to call it sacred, an indescribable feeling envelops my heart.
If I had to choose the best place in Buan, I would pick Naesosa Temple.
Next time, I should make Naesosa Temple a day trip and visit Jikso Falls as well.
16:20 Boarded the bus from Naesosa to Gyeokpo
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“Is this the bus going to Gyeokpo Port?”
“Yes, get on. This is the third time you’ve ridden the bus I’m driving.”
We diligently followed the bus route and ended up riding the same bus three times.
The friendly driver recognized me first. I wasn't entirely sure, but
Skeletal saplings seen on the way to Gyeokpo Port. Could they be mulberry trees?
16:44 Disembark at Gyeokpo Port
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The famous landmarks of Buan visible at the bus stop after getting off at Gyeokpo Port.
I have visited Naesosa and Gaeamsa, and I plan to go to Chaeseokgang tomorrow.
I want to visit other places if I get the chance.
I went to my accommodation, unpacked my bags, and rested.
18:35 Chaeseokgang fish market
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Whenever I come to the seaside, the place I always stop by is the nearby fish market.
Near the accommodation Chaeseokgang The fish market and Gyeokpo Port fish market were a 20-minute walk away.
In the evening, I plan to buy some food at the fish market and enjoy it at my accommodation along with the alcohol I bought.
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In the tank, the most fish seen were halibut, farmed spotted flounder, and rockfish.
I took a picture of this tank because the abalone fish were arranged in a really funny way.
Is the fish at the very bottom really heavy or not?
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I saw a wild rockfish, so I took a picture.
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Domestic lilies, a representative specialty of Buan, were also visible everywhere.
They were also selling Chinese lilies separately at a cheaper price.
The merchants were clearly distinguishing between domestic and Chinese products when selling them.
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I think I heard it's mud oysters from the Buan region? Something like that.
If that is correct, they said it is a variety with a stronger aroma than regular oysters.
I was curious, but I'll pass for now.
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I bought wild rockfish at Gyeokpo Port Fish Market. It weighs 1.5kg, and it costs 40,000 won per kg.
I bought it along with 500g of lilies, which were 22,000 won per kg.
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Buan Local Food Market located near Gyeokpo Port Fish Market.
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They sold mulberry juice, and they also had local liquor here.
It was much cheaper than Salty Sunset... ㅠㅠ
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I also bought a bottle of high-quality makgeolli made without added sugar.
I also bought a 29-degree barley soju called Mori.
In addition to alcoholic beverages, they were selling a wide variety of goods, including various Buan specialties, seafood, and meat from Buan.
As someone who seeks out local food whenever I travel, I was surprised by how well-maintained it was.
I saw that the Buan County Office was running it, and I thought it would be nice if every other region had at least one store like this.
19:40 Arrived at accommodation
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A full spread of rockfish, steamed clams, and even sea squirts served as a complimentary dish.
The yield of large-headed rockfish is a bit sad.
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Chaeseokgang Makgeolli 15 is a 15% ABV makgeolli made by Yuyu Brewery. It was very dry, with an attractive heavy body and a slight acidity. It tastes best when served slightly chilled.
Recommended for those who usually like dry drinks like Song Myeong-seop Makgeolli.
It was quite good for me, as I like traditional liquor but am always sad because it is too sweet.
Angel's Sigh contains pear and ginseng root, and the ginseng flavor is stronger than expected, so for those who enjoy medicinal liquor
It seems like it will go well. The alcohol sensation is well-balanced for the 171 TP3T ABV, but the ginseng flavor is difficult to handle...
Baekje Soju is a rice soju from Naebyeonsan Brewery.
The alcohol content was 251 TP3T, and I could feel the characteristic clean taste of rice soju.
Mori Soju is a barley soju produced by Gangsan Myeongju, and it is said to be made using glutinous barley from Buan.
The barley soju felt a bit sharp, but considering the alcohol content, it wasn't bad.
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They also added mussels and surf clams so that I could make soup with the leftovers.
I thought it would be a hassle to buy various ingredients and seasonings, so I just made broth to cook ramen.
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Chuberup ramen is the best
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Mulberry latte and steamed bun I had at Seulji Bakery for dessert.
The mulberry jam and latte were unique, and while the cream steamed bun wasn't very good, I want to buy more of the bagel steamed bun.
I guess it's true that the price is a bit high. Now, sweet dreams.
Buan Walking Tour DAY 2, Chaeseokgang – Byeonsan Seawater Steam Bath – Buan Terminal
Buan Walking Tour DAY 2-1. Chaeseokgang (feat. Sea Caves)
07:30 Chaeseokgang
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There is a famous photo spot at Chaeseokgang.
Chaeseokgang That is a sea cave.
I came out to the beach early in the morning because I can only go to the sea cave when the water recedes at low tide.
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A flock of seagulls is busy on the mudflats, perhaps eating.
The supermarket below the accommodation was selling mudflat experience kits; it would be fun to dig for clams here.
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The really important thing here Chaeseokgang How to get to the sea cave
If you search for Chaeseokgang on Naver Maps… lol
Chaeseokgang is over there, and to get from there to the sea cave, you have to traverse a long and rugged rocky path.
There is a sea cave near that red circle (to be precise, somewhere between the red and green circles), and there are stairs leading down to it. Let's follow the green path.
I booked accommodation nearby and came out early in the morning to see the sea cave, but
Following the red path, I walked for a long time without knowing when the sea cave would appear, and
I turned around with tears in my eyes, thinking the water was about to rise.
I couldn't even get a look at the sea cave lololol
The disaster I created by not looking into it carefully
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The Chaeseokgang I saw while breaking through the rocky path was pretty, too.
I saw tons of barnacles, too lolol
The water started rising, so I gave up for now and decided to view the sea cave from the outside later once it is fully filled.
We decided to go eat because we were satisfied.
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Chaeseokgang It looks pretty even when taken on the rocky path.
08:20 Lily Restaurant
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I came to Baekhap Restaurant this morning to devour Buan's famous clam porridge.
Clam porridge is sold everywhere, but I chose this place because it was the only one that sold clam stone pot rice.
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It is warm and substantial.
The seasoned soy sauce served with the stone pot rice was lightly seasoned with plenty of sesame oil, and that was good too.
After having breakfast, I'll go back to the accommodation and sleep for a little while again before checking out.
11:00 Water rose Chaeseokgang Sea cave lol
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As I followed the green path above, determined to at least see the sea cave filled with water,
Seagulls perched one by one on the submerged breakwater
Perhaps because the air and water are so good, the seagulls in this neighborhood aren't afraid of people and their calls are incredibly loud.
The scenery was beautiful and the weather was nice, so any regrets had already left my mind.
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A cat tanning in a good way
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The stairs that rose with water like that and
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A locked sea cave… lolololololol
Let's leave now without any lingering regrets.
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Buan's 9 Scenic Spots, 9 Local Products, and 9 Local Delicacies posted at the bus stop
Buan Walking Tour DAY 2-2. Byeonsan Seawater Steam Bath
12:20 Board bus at Byeonsan Seawater Steam Bath / 12:45 Arrive at Byeonsan Seawater Steam Bath
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I thought I’d go home after a body bath, so I impulsively added a seawater sauna to my schedule and came here.
I originally planned to go to Jeokbyeokgang (Suseongdang), but after seeing reviews saying that the canola flowers at Suseongdang hadn't bloomed yet...
I changed direction abruptly.
It's 22,000 won per person for one hour. HomepageIf you make a reservation at [the store], you will receive a discount to 41,800 won for two people.
Since it is a sauna in a private room, it would be a good idea to call ahead to check if there is a room available.
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Wearing my sauna suit, munching on Chapagetti at the snack bar while waiting for the water...
Unfortunately, they say you can't eat ramen in the room. Perhaps it's because someone spilled it before?
You can eat baked eggs and snacks inside.
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I didn't take a picture of the room. It looks like this.
They advised me not to put my feet in immediately because it is hot, and warned that it would be a big problem if I fell in since there is a bath right in front of the room.
They also gave me 1 hour and 30 minutes, not 1 hour.
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It looks like there are mulberries and some medicinal herbs in it, and the water in the middle here is super hot.
Be careful, if you put it in before it cools down, you'll turn into a whole roast chicken immediately.
The unique thing is that you soak a towel in water here and wrap it around your body to apply a compress.
The room isn't hot; it's cool, and I can open the window.
It feels like an open-air bath, and with the hot towel placed on me, it’s pure bliss.
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And they said that I have to mix the water up and down vigorously with the ladle they gave me for it to cool down little by little.
We stirred excitedly because we wanted to soak our feet and enjoy a warm foot bath.
But ㅠㅠ the water is really, really hot and maintains the temperature so, so, so, so well
Maybe our efforts weren't enough, but we failed to dip our toes in until we left.. LOL
Ah, it's seriously super hot.
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Teachers, how did you pickle it..?
If there were a ban on masse shots under 300 in billiards
In seawater steam baths, entry is strictly prohibited for the elderly and younger.
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The towel cools down faster than I expected, so it's a bit of a hassle, but
I thought it would be just like a regular sauna, but it was fun since it was my first time doing something like this.
It was seriously super hot. I want to do it again. If I go to Buan, I'll go again. Next time, I'll aim to jump right in.
After taking a bath at the seawater bath, I set off for Buan Terminal.
Buan Walking Tour DAY 2-3. Buan Terminal
Arrived at Buan Terminal at 16:00
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I planned to arrive at the terminal, eat, and take the 17:50 bus up to Seoul.
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There is a wide variety of species, including flatfish, octopus, mantis shrimp, skate, clams, and mud crabs.
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I went to the sushi restaurant in Buan that I had planned to go to on the first day.
They said that reservations were already full and takeout wouldn't be available until after 6 o'clock.
A shop that was more popular than expected.
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Since it was Sunday, there were no shops closed, I was hungry, and the bus time was tight, so
I went to a Western-style restaurant near the terminal.
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Soup and various side dishes... It's unique.
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Cheese Kimchi Doria, which tastes like cheese itself, and Western-style Cheese Pork Cutlet
I wonder how long it has been since I last saw a Doria on the menu.
The taste is ordinary, but it seems like a place of fond memories for the local residents.
And so, I took the bus again, and the trip to Buan came to an end.
I thought it would be really remote and difficult since it was an unfamiliar area and the bus schedule was basically every hour, but
The bus schedule is good and the people are friendly.
The scenery and atmosphere are full of leisure.
Buan is much more sophisticated than expected.
It was fun. I thought I would be able to enjoy everything in just two days and one night, but there are still so many things I missed.
Full of cherry blossoms Gaeamsa Temple, Suseongdang in April with canola flowers in full bloom
I am curious about Buan in May and June, when mulberries are in season, and Naesosa Temple in autumn when the leaves turn red.
I hope to visit again in another season.
