Goheung, Jeonnam, Walking Tour: 2-Day, 1-Night Itinerary [May 17 – May 18, 2026]

Goheung, Jeonnam, a record of a 2-day, 1-night walking trip in May 1926

Date of visit: 26.05.17 – 26.05.18
Departure Point: Seoul Central City Terminal (Honam Line)
Destination: Goheung Public Bus Stop
Purpose: Half-price trip, eating seasonal yellow ray in May

First of all, one thing to note is that there were too many things that went wrong on this trip, and
The point is that this route was definitely not a route worth recommending.

At the very bottom, I have briefly summarized this trip and a recommended imaginary itinerary.

Goheung Walking Tour DAY 1, Goheung-eup – Pungyang Brewery – Nokdong

08:00 Departure from Seoul Central City Terminal

The estimated duration is 4 hours and 30 minutes.

10:15 Stop at Tancheon Rest Area for 10 minutes

Sotteok-sotteok instead of breakfast.
Why is it that even food I don't usually crave tastes so good whenever I come to a rest stop?

13:00 Arrived at Goheung Terminal

I arrived at the terminal about 30 minutes later than expected.
I slept well on the bus for the entire 5 hours…

This is a tourist information board at the terminal.
Along with Goheung's 8 specialties, 9 delicacies, and 10 scenic spots, tourist attractions in each region are depicted.

The goal of this trip is to tour Nokdong and Geumdo, starting from the center of Goheung and moving to the lower left.
Since there was no way to cross from Nokdong on the left to Oenarodo on the right in one go on foot, it was completely impossible to tour all of Goheung in a 1-night, 2-day itinerary.

Goheung Walking Tour DAY 1-1. Goheung-eup, Goheung Traditional Market & Hanaro Mart (feat. Doraji Restaurant)

13:10 Doraji Restaurant

Since lunchtime had long passed and we were hungry, we immediately looked for a restaurant.
Goheung Doraji Restaurant, which sells raw yellow stingray, locally known as Hwanggaori.

The yellow stingray has red dot-like patterns in the center of its flesh; although it looks unique, it tastes similar to beef sashimi.

In Seoul, it can often be found at seasonal seafood shops such as Sorando in Gunja and Seochon Gyedanjip in Seochon. The peak season is from May to August when the weather is hot.

14:00 Goheung Traditional Market

Visited Goheung Traditional Market after a hearty meal.
It was from this moment that all of Goheung's content... began to unfold differently than I had expected.

Today was certainly not market day (Goheung's market days are the 4th and 9th), but I didn't expect that not a single shop would be open like this. It seems that even the main market in Goheung-eup becomes deserted when it is not market day.

You can check information about the five-day markets in Goheung here.

Leaving the empty market behind, I headed to the nearby Hanaro Mart.

Hanaro Mart, located a 10-minute walk from Goheung Traditional Market.
The biggest reason I visit Hanaro Mart whenever I travel is, of course, to browse local liquor.

There were no notable local Goheung liquors in the distilled spirits, rice wine, and medicinal wine sections.
The makgeolli section was still filled with some Goheung liquors.
Sudeoksan Makgeolli and Yuja Makgeolli, famous as a specialty of Goheung, were the mainstays.

You can check Goheung's local specialties here.

I skipped the black garlic makgeolli because it is from Suncheon, and I did not purchase the Goheung yuzu makgeolli here separately since it was from Pungyang Brewery, which I was visiting next.

Goheung Walking Tour DAY 1-2. Pungyang Brewery

14:30 Departing for Pungyang Brewery
Pungyang Brewery is located next to Yuja Park.

There are several buses heading from Goheung-eup to Pungyang Brewery, but because the intervals between buses are long,
It is a good idea to check the bus schedule carefully using Kakao Map.

The original plan was to look around the brewery, and if time permitted, visit the Yuja Park as well, and then take a bus to Nokdong.

‘Pungyang Brewery Yuja-hyangju Cheongjeong Nonghyup Corporation’
061-832-4481~2

Tasting or touring the brewery was not possible, but I was able to buy makgeolli and yuzu-flavored liquor, which are available at nearby Hanaro Marts, at a slightly lower price. (The difference is not significant.)

The liquor I could only find at the brewery was the medicinal liquor i love yuja. It was quite expensive at around 20,000 won, but since I stopped by, I bought a bottle.

To start with the conclusion, for travelers on foot with limited accessibility, it would be difficult to recommend visiting unless they have a strong interest.

It is also a shame that there is no separate content to pique consumer interest, such as explanations about the alcohol.
I had drinks at the accommodation later... let's talk about the taste below.

Hanaro Mart near the bus stop where I arrived before leaving the brewery and catching the 3 o'clock bus to Nokdong.

I saw a Goheung citron drink, so I picked one up.

Two types of liquor from Pungyang Brewery were on sale.
Hanaro Mart did not have any other notable local Goheung liquors.
I only bought yuzu juice and left. Yummy

I also petted the puppy that really likes the person it met in front of the bus stop.
Bori, are you doing well? (I don't know your real name... but since you're barley-colored, I'm Bori.)

15:00
I was waiting for the bus in front of the Yuja bus stop...
A bus came and we waved our hands hard at it, but maybe they didn't see us... the bus just drove past.
In Goheung, where the bus schedule is incredibly infrequent, if a bus leaves like this, it is an accident.

I had no choice but to hail a taxi and go to Nokdong Brewery.
Since I missed the bus anyway, it would have been nice to stop by the nearby Yuja Park.
That didn't come to mind at the time.
I got into a taxi bound for Nokdong, leaving a bitter aftertaste.

Goheung Walking Tour DAY 1-3. Nokdong Port (feat. Nokdong Brewery, Nokdong Restaurant, Nokdong Port)

15:39
Let's take comfort in the fact that I was able to get here comfortably thanks to missing the bus.
Nokdong Brewery, visited to buy the citron wine sold at Nokdong Brewery.

Eotteon Yuja 06, Goheung Yujaju 8%, Goheung Yujaju 12%, Goheung Yuja Makgeolli Light, and 4 types of alcohol Makgeolli We are selling vinegar.

Tasting is not provided separately.
I ordered two types of Yuja, Eotteon Yuja 06 and Goheung Yuja Makgeolli Light, and left to drink at my accommodation later.

As expected, carrying a lot of alcohol was heavy, so I decided to drop off my luggage at the accommodation and come out again.
The view of Nokdong Port at low tide on the way to the accommodation.

16:00
‘I stayed at a business hotel called 'Hotel Gallery,' and the view from the window is nice.
The price is also 80,000 won for a double room with breakfast for one person included.

17:45
Dongil Restaurant is famous for 'Ssaemi-jjim,' a local dish from Goheung. 'Ssaemi' is the local dialect for the rockfish (*Sombaengi*), which is abundant in Goheung, and the restaurant specializes in steamed fish made with rockfish.

I wanted to stop by since I was in Goheung, but I heard that the shop is closed from the end of March to the end of May for medical treatment.
I hope you recover quickly.

There were so many flowers blooming on the streets of Goheung.
The scallion flower bloomed. When I first saw the scallion flower, I was so fascinated by it, but I had forgotten the obvious fact that scallion flowers bloom.

18:00 Nokdong Restaurant

This is Nokdong Restaurant, responsible for tonight's dinner.
Looking at the menu alone, it had a strong Japanese izakaya vibe, but the exterior looks like an ordinary restaurant.

They mainly serve fusion Japanese food, and it was fun because there were many menu items using ingredients from Goheung.
As an outsider in Goheung, I was impressed by the quite sophisticated and skilled cuisine.

After finishing our meal, we stopped by Nokdong Traditional Market. Just like Goheung Traditional Market, it was completely empty because it was not market day.
Nokdong Traditional Market is a five-day market held on the 3rd and 8th of each month. It was a capybara curious about what the market day looked like.

The bridge visible beyond Nokdong Port at sunset is quite pretty.
As evening falls, I see a performance truck and a few food trucks.
There were many local residents, especially the elderly, gathered there, but I couldn't tell exactly what kind of festival it was or if it was held regularly every weekend.

Nokdong Sea Garden, an artificial island in Nokdong Port. I couldn't cross the bridge, so I looked around and found out that it was inaccessible due to remodeling until March 29, 2027. It really was a lot of wasted trips on the first day in Goheung.

As a consolation, there was a dome theater nearby, so I visited it.

Lol, it looks really funny in the photos, but it's actually pretty decent to watch from the inside.
They were playing a promotional video for Goheung, and the chair was super comfortable; it seems perfect for treating forward head posture.

Feeling a bit regretful, I decided to grab a hotteok... The taste of the Guro hotteok I ate in Goheung was amazing.
The corn-flavored dough was delicious.

Leaving Nokdong Port, where the sun had completely set, behind, I headed to my accommodation.

To wrap up the day, we enjoyed the liquor purchased from Pungyang Brewery and Nokdong Brewery (Eotteon Haru) at our accommodation, along with stir-fried razor clams packed from nearby.

Nokdong Brewery's Yuja 06 suited my taste the best. Although I didn't buy it this time, the same brewery's Goheung Yuja Wine 8% or 12% are more recommendable for those who prefer less sweet alcohol.

We were already full, and the amount of alcohol was simply too much for two people. I don't plan to cover artificial sweetener makgeolli very often in the future. I was too full... and it lacked any distinctive features, so there is nothing worth introducing.

Goheung Walking Tour DAY 2, Nokdong Port – Geumgeumdo – Suhyup Fresh Fish Center

Goheung Walking Tour DAY 2-1, Nokdong Port (feat. Geumgeum Gamjatang)

The goal for the second day was clear.
Since the last bus to Seoul leaves at Nokdong Bus Terminal at 16:40, the plan was to stop by Yeonhongdo on Geumgeumdo before then. I squeezed the rest of the itinerary into the intermediate stop on the way to Yeonhongdo, but as a result, this plan was a complete failure.

09:34 Nokdong New Port Coastal Passenger Terminal

In front of the accommodation, the passenger ferry terminal for Jeju Island was visible.
I’ve heard a lot about going to Jeju Island by boat, but this is the first time I’ve actually seen a passenger ferry terminal.

It looks like it can even carry cars; it's fascinating to see it like this.

I chose bone haejanguk for the first meal of the second day.
Normally, I wouldn't choose a safe menu item like bone broth soup when traveling out of town.
It wasn't that I needed a hangover cure because I drank too much alcohol, either.

For the Goheung Half-Price Trip, only amounts paid via Chak Pay are recognized.
I was getting a bit annoyed because on the first day, I couldn't find a single store that accepted ChakPay QR payments.

The night before, I looked for Chakpay at my accommodation, specifically for stores that accepted QR payments, but the shops I wanted were hard to find.
I visited this store out of sheer stubbornness because, as things stand, there is no way to verify whether Chakpay is actually working or not.

I confirmed with the owner whether QR payment was possible and took a seat.
Since I was in Namdo, I also ordered a kimchi bone hangover soup. It is a large restaurant with plenty of seating, and the bone hangover soup has a decent taste.

Goheung Walking Tour DAY 2-2, Geogeum Rest Area (feat. Maesaengi Hotteok)

10:30 AM after finishing the meal
I will take the 10:40 bus from here towards Geumdo.

This is a rest area built at the entrance to Geumdo Island, located in the southwest of Goheung, connecting Nokdong, Sorokdo, and Geumdo.

Geumgeumdo Rest Area operates a free bicycle rental service where you can rent a single or double bicycle and use it for one hour.
A separate bicycle lane is installed and operated beneath the road used by cars.

The view of Geumdaegyo Bridge beyond the rental shop.
It's the prettiest place I've seen in Goheung. (Although I haven't really seen much.)

Sitting on a bench in the pavilion, feeling the sea breeze, feels like living in paradise.
It is just a shame that I couldn't enjoy it properly because I was pressed for time.

I took a picture too.

I was loitering outside taking pictures, so someone asked why I wasn't coming in... lol
You can leave your ID card here, rent a helmet and a bicycle, and go.

Don't forget that the rental is free for one hour. You cannot go all the way to Sorokdo Island, and you can only ride on the bicycle path connected by the bridge.

I rented a tandem bike, but I couldn't take any photos while riding, so I don't have any...
This is what the bicycle path looks like.

I feel kind of silly wearing a helmet... lol
The distance is quite a bit farther than I thought, and the road towards Sorokdo is slightly uphill, so it is quite tiring, but
The sea breeze quickly wipes away the sweat droplets formed while running, so there is no problem.
On the way back, I don't even need to pedal because it's downhill, so I zoom along.

Sorokdo viewed from Geumdaegyo Bridge.
I wanted to visit the interior of Sorokdo as well, but the timing and itinerary didn't work out at all, so I gave up.

Leaving the fun of cycling behind, I came to taste the famous Maesaengi Hotteok at Geumgeum Rest Area.
There were three shops side by side, and the leftmost shop sold noodles.
The shops in the center and on the right were selling maesaengi hotteok.
The shop on the right seemed famous, but I went into the shop in the center without much thought.

Actually, I didn't even know it was a different store.

Hotteok costs 2,000 won per piece. I ordered one Maesaengi Hotteok, one Yuja Hotteok, and an iced coffee.

I thought it wouldn't have any special features other than the name, but after tasting it, the characteristics of maesaengi and yuzu are better preserved than I expected.
Be careful, it's really hot. If I visit again, I think I'll eat it again. It's not incredibly delicious, but it's interesting because it has quite a unique character.

12:10
While waiting for the bus heading to Sinyang Pier to go to Yeonhongdo after eating hotteok, a problem arose.
I miscalculated the time and couldn't arrive on time for the 12:30 boat...
I can't catch a taxi, and since the next ferry is at 14:30, when I think about the last bus back to Seoul
I couldn't wait any longer, so I returned to Geumgeum Rest Area.

The bus returning from Geogeum Rest Area to Nokdong is scheduled to arrive at 1 o'clock, so
I was debating whether to wait while looking around nearby or call a taxi.

“Are you going to Nokdong?”
“"yes that's right."”
“I called a taxi, so let's go together.”
“Is that okay? Thank you!”

The man who had already called a taxi and was waiting at the bus stop, perhaps having overheard our conversation
Thankfully, he suggested that we take a taxi together.

Goheung Walking Tour DAY 2-3, Nokdong Again (feat. Suhyup Live Seafood Center)

12:40 Nokdong Hanaro Mart

Hanaro Mart, which I stopped by in Nokdong after returning there.
There were liquors here made at Geumsan Brewery on Geumgeumdo Island.

This is one of the breweries I missed when looking for breweries in Goheung, and it seems to be located on the way from Geumgeumdo to Sinyang Pier.
I bought one fresh makgeolli and one yuzu makgeolli.

Take a breather at a bakery cafe

The dried seafood shop next to Nokdong Restaurant.
It was a shop that dried flatfish caught directly and sold via delivery or takeout, so I had my eye on buying some before heading up.
It looks like they are closed on Sundays.

Since there are many dried seafood shops near Nokdong Port, I headed over hoping there might be an open one.

It’s a view that makes me want to just hang out with the sea and drink the makgeolli I bought at Hanaro Mart.

14:20
daytime Fresh raw fish centerI stopped by to look around.

There are plenty of fish species that are definitely large and hard to find in Seoul, such as the spotted grunt, large wild rockfish, and red snapper.

There's also plenty of the yellowtail stingray and cuttlefish I ate yesterday...
Now that I'm actually looking at the fish tank, I'm craving sashimi again.
I had planned to have the eel soup and grilled eel, the signature dishes of Nokdong Port, for my last meal in Goheung, but I am having second thoughts.

14:50
There are several dried seafood shops across from the Fisheries Cooperative Live Fish Center, and I still have lingering regrets about the sole I couldn't buy earlier.
I came to look around the dried seafood shop.

There were various semi-dried fish in the refrigerator, such as yellowtail scad, black sea bream, croaker, cuttlefish, and butterfish.
Unfortunately, they said they don't have sole today. It is really convenient and nice to have clear labeling between Chinese and domestic products.

Among them, we chose conger eel. Since we came to Nokdong, we definitely have to buy some eel.
When I mentioned that I was going to Seoul, they even packed a cooler and ice packs for me.
We also accept ChakPay here 🙂 Nokdong Dried Seafood suggestion!

It was 3 PM, after finishing shopping. The time for the decisive battle had arrived.
It was time to have an early meal if I wanted to catch the 4:40 PM train.
Even though I thought my last meal would be eel soup and grilled eel, the reason I chose dried eel is….

That's right. It would have been a real shame to come all the way here and leave without eating sashimi.
weighing exactly 1 kilogram I expertly sliced up a red snapper and even some cheap cuttlefish, which were in bulk, into sashimi and went to a dipping sauce restaurant.
I thought the red snapper would be too much, so I asked them to fillet only half of it and wrap the other half in thawing paper.

After having a hearty meal at the sashimi center on the second floor

service sea cucumber

After thoroughly enjoying the red snapper stew, I put an end to my trip to Goheung.

Quiet Nokdong Terminal

Hello, Goheung
It was a tough and difficult trip for a pedestrian, but I realized that I need to prepare better.
It was still fun.