Hadong, Gyeongnam, Traditional Liquor and Local Breweries — Hwagae Joint Brewery, Hadong Gam Winery, Gojeon Brewery, Akyang Brewery

The Seomjin River flows where Mt. Jirisan ends. At this boundary where the mountain and the river meet, people have long brewed liquor. While Hadong was first known as the home of wild tea, it is also a home of alcohol.

Merchants passing through Hwagae Market quenched their thirst Makgeolli, From fresh makgeolli brewed with rice from the fields of Pyeongsa-ri in Akyang to fruit wine made from Daebong persimmons—Hadong's alcohol resembles the landscape of this land.

The roots of Hadong's traditional liquor lie in the culture of the five-day market. Hwagae Market, spanning the border between Yeongnam and Honam, was a large market that boasted the seventh-largest scale in the country since the mid-Joseon Dynasty.

Where wild vegetables from Mt. Jirisan, seafood from the Seomjin River, and grains from the Honam Plain gathered, alcohol also followed suit. Distilleries operating at the township level supported this demand, and some of them have continued to this day for well over half a century.

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Hwagae Joint Brewery

Hwagae Joint Brewery is located within walking distance of Hwagae Market. It became today's brewery when two or three distilleries in the Hwagae-myeon area were merged into one through a government-led consolidation policy in the 1970s. After leaving a large food company to return to his hometown of Hadong and inherit the family business, CEO Lee Geun-wang has upheld the philosophy of making "liquor sought out by visitors to the region.".

He holds a clear vision regarding local liquor. To him, who often says that "local liquor is the poetry and songs created by the region's climate and culture," makgeolli is not merely a product of distribution strategy but an expression of the land of Hwagae. Hwagae Market Makgeolli uses rice from Hadong, and equipped with distillation facilities, the company is also continuing to expand its soju production line.

Hwagae Market Makgeolli

경남 하동, 전통주와 지역 술 양조장 — 화개합동양조장, 하동감와이너리, 고전양조장, 악양주조 count(title)%, 화개장터 막걸리 scaled

Ingredients and Content
Purified water, puffed rice, rice, koji, crude enzyme, purified enzyme, yeast, aspartame, sodium saccharin

Hwagae Market Makgeolli is the everyday drink of the people passing through this neighborhood. Characterized by its thick and familiar flavor, it features lively carbonation and a smooth finish. Despite being a sweetener-based makgeolli, it is not sweet; instead, it leaves a lasting impression with its rather dry taste, featuring an attractive, unique acidity.

This is the first makgeolli I encountered in Hadong, and its taste has sparked a strong interest in the makgeolli found throughout the region. It can be easily found in the Hwagae Market and the surrounding Hwagae-myeon area.

Paradise

경남 하동, 전통주와 지역 술 양조장 — 화개합동양조장, 하동감와이너리, 고전양조장, 악양주조 count(title)%, 별천지 막걸리 scaled
Ingredients and Content
Purified water, rice, koji, citric acid, yeast
No sweetener
No added alcohol

Byeolcheonji is the premium line of Hwagae Hapdong Brewery. It is brewed using only rice, koji, and yeast, resulting in a simple composition. It contains neither aspartame nor sodium saccharin. Citric acid balances the acidity, creating an overall balance that is clean and dry.

The pleasant acidity and dry balance, which were also present in Hwagae Jangteo Makgeolli, seem to reflect the brewery's direction. Befitting a premium line, the heavier body and rice grain feel delightfully distinct. I purchased this at the Hanaro Mart in Hwagae-myeon for 8,000 won. I would recommend this as a must-try makgeolli when visiting Hadong.


Hadong Gam Winery

Hadong Gam Winery is a fruit wine brewery located in Akyang-myeon. It began producing wine using Daebong persimmons as the raw material in 2016. Unlike grapes, Daebong persimmons have a fundamentally different acidity composition, so the winemaking formulas used for grape wine could not be applied directly. It is said that he personally led the establishment of the Hadong Wine Research Group within the Gangso Farmers' Association to acquire the necessary theoretical knowledge.

Akyang Daebong persimmon is a variety known to have originated in Akyang-myeon, Hadong-gun. It is characterized by its large size and intense sweetness, and when fully ripe, its juice flows down like honey. The challenge for Hadong Gam Winery was to produce a fermented liquor from this rich sweetness, and the brand name 'Gamuro' was given to the resulting product.

Therefore (500ml)

경남 하동, 전통주와 지역 술 양조장 — 화개합동양조장, 하동감와이너리, 고전양조장, 악양주조 count(title)%, 하동감와이너리 가므로 scaled
Ingredients and Content
Persimmon fruit, sugar, citric acid, yeast, potassium metabisulfite, potassium sorbate
No sweetener
No added alcohol

The sweetness of Gamuro comes from the Daebong persimmon itself. Sugar is used to aid fermentation and add sugar, and no sweeteners are included. Potassium metabisulfite and potassium sorbate are ingredients for oxidation prevention and preservation, and are commonly used in fruit wine brewing.

The taste starts drier than expected, followed by a long, lingering sweet finish characteristic of persimmon. When served chilled, the flavor of the fruit juice comes alive distinctly. The factory price is 20,000 won for a 500ml bottle. It is also available for purchase at the online store (hdwine.co.kr).

View at Hadong Gam Winery Online Store

Classic Brewery

Gojeon Brewery is a brewery that has consistently supplied local makgeolli in Gojeon-myeon, Hadong-gun. The product name, "Hadong Cham Joheun Sul" (Hadong Truly Good Wine), captures the essence of the liquor directly without any special rhetoric. It is a place that has faithfully fulfilled its role as the standard makgeolli for the local community.

Hadong truly good liquor

경남 하동, 전통주와 지역 술 양조장 — 화개합동양조장, 하동감와이너리, 고전양조장, 악양주조 count(title)%, 하동 참 좋은 술 scaled
Ingredients and Content
Purified water, rice, koji, yeast starter, yeast, aspartame, sodium saccharin, lactic acid
 

‘'Hadong Cham Joheun Sul' stands out for using both koji and nuruk. By combining improved fermentation agents with traditional nuruk, it sits somewhere between mass-produced makgeolli and traditional methods. With an accessible price point, it can often be found in restaurants in the Hadong region.


Akyang Brewery

The history of Akyang Brewery spans over 100 years. It began with the operation of its predecessor, Akyang Joint Brewery, and is currently being run by the third generation. Having worked in Seoul, he returned to his hometown of Akyang 15 years ago, replaced all the outdated equipment, and shifted the focus to fresh makgeolli.

In 2021, the name was changed to 'Akyang Brewery'. Now, the family is running the distillery together with the addition of the eldest daughter and son-in-law.

Akyang-myeon was designated as a Slow City in 2009. The waters of the Seomjin River and the fields of Pyeongsa-ri—this very Akyang is the setting of Park Kyung-ri's novel *Toji*. Akyang Brewery brews liquor using new rice and glutinous rice grown in these fields, along with homemade Korean wheat koji.

Akyang Makgeolli

경남 하동, 전통주와 지역 술 양조장 — 화개합동양조장, 하동감와이너리, 고전양조장, 악양주조 count(title)%, 악양막걸리 scaled
Ingredients and Content
Purified water, white rice (domestic), koji (domestic), nuruk (domestic), crude enzyme (wheat), lactic acid (acidity regulator), mixed preparation (yeast·dextrin·lactose), mixed preparation (steviol glycoside·dextrin), mixed preparation (enzyme:amylase·enzyme:glucoamylase·calcium carbonate·calcium sulfate)
domestic rice

Akyang Makgeolli is a 750ml unpasteurized rice wine with an alcohol content of 6%. It is made using new rice from Hadong along with domestic koji and traditional nuruk. The sweetness is achieved using steviol glycosides, and it is released after low-temperature aging. It is a refreshing style with a sweet aroma and natural carbonation that fills the mouth.

Jeonggam Makgeolli

경남 하동, 전통주와 지역 술 양조장 — 화개합동양조장, 하동감와이너리, 고전양조장, 악양주조 count(title)%, 정감막걸리 scaled
Ingredients and Content
Purified water, white rice (domestic), glutinous rice (domestic), koji (domestic), yeast starter (domestic), crude enzyme preparation (wheat), rice bran, lactic acid (acidity regulator), mixed preparation (yeast·dextrin·lactose), mixed preparation (steviol glycoside·dextrin), mixed preparation (enzyme:amylase·enzyme:glucoamylase·calcium carbonate·calcium sulfate)
domestic rice

Jeonggam Makgeolli is Akyang Brewery's premium line. It is made with white rice. Glutinous rice (domestic)It contains rice bran, and rice bran is also included in the ingredients. With an alcohol content of 8%, it is higher than Akyang Makgeolli. It is said that the acidity is suppressed and the nutty flavor of rice comes through, and the texture was quite smooth and light for a glutinous rice makgeolli.

View products on the official Akyang Brewery website

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