Musk, the History of Musk More Expensive Than Gold — Top 3 Perfume Recommendations, Explanations of Scents, Fragrance Ingredients, and Production Areas All in One

The Breath of Perfume, What Is Musk?

When creating a perfume, there is an ingredient that the perfumer reaches for last. It is an ingredient that is inconspicuous, yet without it the scent collapses, while its presence holds everything in place.

as soon as Musk, in our language, musk (麝香It is a spice called ).

An interesting story begins if you trace the roots of the word Musk.

This word comes from the Greek 'moskos (μόσχος)', the Persian 'mushk', and the Sanskrit 'muṣka', which means 'testicle'.

The people who first discovered the musk sac of the musk deer named it based on its shape.

The fact that a fragrance originating from such a primitive etymology has reigned as humanity's greatest luxury for thousands of years speaks to the fact that musk is an indispensable fragrance when talking about perfume.

Scientific name: Moschus moschiferus (Musk deer, Himalayan musk deer). Musk, used as a fragrance, is harvested only from the males of this species and three closely related species.

This shy, small animal, which inhabits mountainous regions from the Himalayas to Afghanistan and China, has been trapped by humans for hundreds of years because of a single musk sac on its abdomen.

Musk is not recorded as a perfume ingredient before the 6th century.

By the time of the Abbasid dynasty, when Islamic civilization flourished, musk became one of the finest luxury goods brought from China by Arab merchant ships, along with silk, camphor, and spices.

It is said that the Caliphs of Baghdad mixed musk into the mortar of their temples and palaces so that the buildings themselves would emit a fragrance.

It is a famous anecdote that Napoleon's Empress Josephine loved musk so much that she filled her bedroom with it, and that even decades after her death, the scent did not disappear no matter how much the room was washed or painted.

Indian mystic poet Kabir (KabirBorrowing from the fable of the musk deer, he left behind this poem: “The musk deer wanders through the forest smelling a beautiful fragrance, but does not know that the scent comes from its navel.”

This is Buddha-nature (BuddhahoodIt speaks of the realization that divinity is not far away but within oneself, but at the same time accurately describes the most essential characteristic of Musk.

Musk is a scent that feels like 'my own' when it touches the skin. It is the core of what is commonly referred to as the 'skin scent.'.

Musk is one of the most powerful fragrance ingredients in perfumery and is also one of the most expensive.

Musk or synthetic musk is an absolute staple in the modern perfume industry, to the extent that it is included as a major ingredient in about 351% of high-quality perfumes.

Musk's extraction method

The method of obtaining natural musk is simple but cruel. The prefrontal cortex located in the abdomen of the male musk deer (pre-abdominal organs) sac, that is, musk sac (musk podIt is to extract ).

The musk sac is a walnut-sized pouch, with one side smooth and the other side hairy.

The contents inside the sac are initially in a semi-fluid state, but when dried, they become irregularly shaped dark granules (musk grains).

The traditional method of extracting perfumes was to soak these granules in high-proof alcohol to make a tincture.

In its undiluted state, it has an unpleasant and overwhelming smell, but its true value is revealed only when sufficiently diluted. Muscone, the core fragrance component of musk (muscone) accounts for about 2% of the total weight of the granules.

The extraction of natural musk has virtually disappeared from the modern perfume industry. In most cases, obtaining natural musk required killing animals, which, along with ethical issues, led to the endangerment of the musk deer.

Synthetic musk has now completely replaced it, and as perfumer Luca Turin pointed out, synthetic musk is cheaper and more reliably supplied than natural musk, bringing a revolution to the perfume industry.

Chemical synthesis methods were developed by Leopold Rusicka in 1926 (Leopold RuzickaThis became possible as ) first elucidated the molecular structure of muscone.

It was a discovery that broke the conventional wisdom of the chemical community at the time that a ring of more than six carbons could not exist, and Ruzicka was awarded the Nobel Prize in Chemistry in 1939 for this achievement.

The Unsung Hero of the Fragrance Industry — The Genealogy of Synthetic Musk

In 1888, German chemist Albert Bauer (Albert BaurWhile researching explosives, he unexpectedly discovered a sweet, musky smell in a derivative of dynamite (trinitrotoluene - TNT).

This accidental discovery was the starting point of nitro musk, which transformed the modern perfume industry. This substance was named 'Musk Baur,' and later 'Tonkin (TonkinolIt also got the name )'.

It was because it was similar to the scent of natural Tonkin musk.

Bauer continued to search for similar substances and discovered Musk Xylene, Musk Ketone, Musk Ambrette, etc.

Musk ketones were evaluated as the nitro musk closest to the scent of natural musk. This nitro musk family was the primary source of musk for perfumes until the mid-20th century.

However, nitro musk had a significant problem. Some of its components were phototoxic, causing allergic skin reactions when exposed to sunlight.

The manufacturing process itself posed safety risks due to its structural characteristics closely resembling TNT. Consequently, most nitro musk was banned or heavily regulated.

The three lineages of synthetic Musk

Appeared in the 1950s Polycyclic MuskIt mainly has structures of indein, tetralin, and isochromocal.

Representative Galaxolide® and Tonalide® were ingredients that formed the basis of the perfume industry in the late 20th century.

Luka Turin often mentions Galaxsolid, along with "Cashmeran," as a representative work of modern polycyclic musk.

However, as the potential for bioaccumulation in the environment and hormone disruption has been raised, this class is also gradually becoming subject to regulation.

The most attention-grabbing thing right now is Macrocyclic MuskC. Muscone and siveton, the key ingredients of natural musk, belong to this category.

It is a macrocyclic compound with a circular ring structure composed of 15 or more carbons, producing a scent closest to natural musk and having an excellent safety profile.

Ethylene Brassylate is the most widely used macrocyclic musk by current production volume and was first synthesized by DuPont in 1933.

It was the fine fragrance debut of perfumer André Fraysse, who used it in Lanvin's 'Arpège' reformule in 1934.

A Forbidden History — The Birth of Musk Deer Conservation and IFRA Regulations

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In the mid-20th century, the musk deer was on the brink of extinction. Overhunting was so severe that it was estimated about 50,000 musk deer were sacrificed annually for the extraction of musk sacs.

To obtain 1 gram of musk, one male had to be sacrificed, and by the 1970s, the price of musk had become more expensive than gold.

The perfume industry’s decision to break its reliance on natural musk was not only due to pressure from animal protection groups, but also for purely economic reasons.

In 1979, the musk deer was [subject to] the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITESIt was designated as a protected species by ).

International commercial trade began to be strictly regulated. Perfumes sold on the market today do not contain natural musk.

It is merely the case that a very small number of indie perfumers hold small quantities of decades-old stock.

The regulation of nitro musk was another trend. Since 1995, the European Union has banned the use of musk ambrette in cosmetics, and subsequently, musk xylene and musk tibetine were also banned.

International Fragrance AssociationIFRA, The International Fragrance Association has continuously strengthened regulations based on data from the independent safety research institute RIFM (Research Institute for Fragrance Materials).

Although musk ketones are not currently completely banned, there are countries where their use in finished perfumes is restricted to about 1.41 TP3 T or less.

In this way, the Nitro Musk family has effectively faded into the background of history, and Polycyclic and Macrocyclic Musk have taken their place.

It is a rare case where an entire fragrance family has been completely replaced for three reasons: ethics, safety, and the environment.

The scents and differences between White Musk and Black Musk

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The classifications of 'White Musk' and 'Black Musk' commonly encountered in perfume shops are not strict chemical classifications.

This is a market and sensory category based on scent impressions and concepts. However, understanding how these two directions actually differ is very practical knowledge when choosing a musk perfume.

White Musk

White musk is the modern concept furthest from natural musk. synthetic musk, It refers to the clean, soapy, and powdery scent created particularly by macrocyclic musk.

Freshly laundered cotton bedding, skin just washed in warm water, or linen dried crisp in the sun. These are the images of White Musk. Luca Turin described this characteristic as a "paradox where cleanliness and animality coexist.".

In fact, while describing Musc Samarkand (Serge Lutens' Musc Samarkand), he said it was “an exquisite middle ground between an unpleasant animalistic smell and a fancy, powdery laundry scent.”.

If white musk is located at the clean end of the spectrum, black musk is at the opposite end.

Ethylene brasylate is one of the representative ingredients of white musk. While describing L'Artisan Parfumeur's 'Mûre et Musc (1978)', Luca Turin described this ingredient as a "creamy synthetic musk with a raspberry overtone." It is light, transparent, and possesses positive energy.

There is a reason why white musk feels particularly familiar in Korea. This is because the scent widely used in fabric softeners and laundry detergents is precisely this white musk family.

Represented by Galaxolide® and Tonalide® Polycyclic MuskIt is a key ingredient that creates a distinctive laundry scent and has long been widely used in detergents, fabric softeners, and fabric fragrances. It is the very scent of warm, dried cotton and freshly laundered bedding.

For this reason, Korean consumers encountering white musk perfumes for the first time often react by saying, "It smells familiar." This is because it is not an unfamiliar scent, but rather one that has been deeply ingrained in their daily lives.

This is also the strength of White Musk: its universality, accepted by everyone as a 'good scent' without any aversion.

However, in fine fragrances, this laundry scent nuance is further refined and developed into a more complex beauty by adding floral or woody notes.

Black Musk

Black musk is darker, deeper, and more animalistic than white musk. Chemically, it is not a single ingredient but synthetic musk containing patchouli, lavdanum, benzoin, Vetiver It is a concept fragrance created by blending the same dark resinous and earthy scents.

In fact, it is impressively similar to the rich animal scent of the past animal musk — the dark granules obtained when musk sacs are dried.

The scent of black musk is warm, intense, and at times slightly sensual and rough. It has the characteristic of opening slowly with a warming sensation on the skin, making it more suitable for evening gatherings or special occasions.

While black musk characteristics are often prominent in men's fragrances, they are also rapidly spreading in the unisex market.

Flavorings suitable for blending

Musk reveals its true value in perfumes when combined with other fragrances rather than standing alone. Musk's greatest strength lies in its role as a "glue," amplifying or "smoothly connecting" other scents. The following are representative fragrances that pair well with musk.

• Rose · Jasmine (Floral) — Musk adds flesh and warmth to floral scents. It is the foundation of the floral musk genre.
• Sandalwood and Cedarwood (Woody series) — The combination of musk and wood is the epitome of 'second skin.' Narciso Rodriguez perfected this combination as the brand identity.
• Vanilla and Tonka Bean (Gourmand series) — Musk makes the sweetness of vanilla more sensual. It is essential to the base of oriental perfumes.
• Amber Lavdanum (Resin series) — The core combination of the Black Musk concept. Depth and warmth are amplified.
• Bergamot· Lemon (citrus) — The combination of white musk and citrus is the formula for a light and refreshing daily fragrance.
• Vetiver Patchouli (Assistant Series) — When dark earthy notes meet musk, the most sensual and deep black musk notes are created.

Recommendations for perfumes representing musk

Fragrances centered on musk share a common goal.

Something that makes you forget you've sprayed perfume, or conversely, something that makes you feel as if the scent is naturally coming from you. Second skin It is effective.

Narciso Rodríguez “For Her” (2003) — This is a prime example of how white musk was established as a brand identity in modern perfumery.

Created by perfumers Sonia Constant and Caroline Sabas, this fragrance features musk as its center note, rose, It has a structure wrapped in velvet wood and amber.

Sonia Constant stated that she intentionally designed it to have a “second skin effect that blends naturally with the skin.” It is ideal as a starting point for white musk fragrances and is a steady seller that maintains consistently high popularity in Korea as well.

Diptyque “Fleur de Peau” EDP (Fleur de Peau EDP, 2019) — ‘True to its name, which means 'flower of the skin,' Fleur de Peau features musk at the forefront of the fragrance while exquisitely layering the powdery floral scents of rose and iris.

Perfumer Olivier Pescheux said of this fragrance, “The goal was to make it feel as if the perfume does not exist.”.

Ambrette Soft derived from ambrette seeds Vegetable musk The base opens slowly on the skin along with floral notes, just like body temperature.

This is a unisex fragrance that suits both men and women, and is consistently recommended, especially to those looking for a 'fragrance that doesn't feel like perfume.'.

The Body Shop “White Musk” (1981) — The Body Shop's White Musk, which has been sold worldwide for over 40 years since its launch in 1981, is perhaps the fragrance that created the image we associate with the word 'White Musk' today.

Soap scent, powdery cleanliness, and subtle floral notes. It is also significant in that it imprinted the ethical image of synthetic musk on the public by promoting cruelty-free ingredients as its brand identity.

With excellent affordability, it is an easy recommendation for those new to musk fragrances, and the lineup is diverse, ranging from Eau de Toilette and perfume oil to body lotion. It is also available for purchase at Korean stores at any time.

The key component that makes up musk

The main ingredient of musk

The components that make up the scent of musk are structurally very diverse. An interesting feature of musk chemistry is that while they all emit a 'musk scent,' their molecular structures can be completely different.

Musk consists of large molecules close to the maximum molecular size, and it is said that anyone can experience anosmia to at least one or two types of musk molecules.

For this reason, perfumers mix various types of musk and blend them so that more people can recognize them.

Signature Ingredient — Muscone (3-methylcyclopentadecanone)It is a key fragrance molecule first discovered in natural musk. It was first discovered in 1905, and its molecular structure was determined by Ruzika in 1925.

It is a macrocyclic ketone with a 15-carbon ring structure, and has two enantiomers due to the asymmetric carbon.

Currently, it is produced exclusively through the synthesis of 100%. The most important fact is that musk develops its scent by interacting with the skin's body temperature. This is also why musk perfumes feel more beautiful 30 minutes after application than immediately after spraying.

IFRA Regulations and Safety

The safety and regulatory status of musk fragrances vary significantly depending on the type. Here is a summary of current regulatory information that can be referenced when purchasing perfume.

The most widely used synthetic musks in the current perfume market — macrocyclic series such as ethylene bracillate, muscone, and exaltolide — have excellent safety profiles.

In particular, ethylene brasilate received a comprehensive evaluation from RIFM stating that it poses no problems in terms of phototoxicity, skin sensitization, or developmental toxicity, to the extent that it is permitted for use up to 100% in all categories.

One thing to note is that contact dermatitis caused by synthetic fragrance mixtures used in some finished perfumes is more likely to occur than an allergy to the musk fragrance itself.

If you have sensitive skin, when using a new musk perfume for the first time, it is recommended to test a small amount on the inside of your wrist first and check for a reaction after 24 hours.

In addition, pregnant women are advised to reduce their exposure to polycyclic musk ingredients such as galaxsolid.